The distinctive Locanda Locatelli logo has long stood for some of the smartest Italian cooking in the capital, & the understated solidity of the dining room will always be a draw for those
seeking a cocoon rather than a scene. Praise for Giorgio Locatelli’s ‘pretty simple’ food centres around his unerring ability to find great ingredients, & his pasta dishes are fashioned to
thrill – just consider lovingly folded tortellini in crystal-clear brodo. To start, a little dish of porcini with rocket & parmesan is guaranteed to ‘knock your socks off’, likewise exquisite
scallops with celery purée & saffron vinaigrette. Mains aim for something more robust, as in ‘simply divine’ monkfish with a walnut & caper sauce or char-grilled lamb with braised peppers
& aubergines, while dessert always brings a fruity tart as well as a more intricate tasting of Amadei chocolate. Despite the occasional blip, smooth, considerate service generally matches the
celeb-friendly cosiness of the set-up.
WINE LIST: Unashamedly patriotic in its choice of wines, Locanda Locatelli has built real buying power with top Italian wine producers. You can sample big hitters from Gaja or Antinori, but
those in the know prefer to explore the many boutique labels on offer instead. BEST BUY WHITE 2008 Impero Pinot Nero Vinificato In Bianco, Fattoria Mancini, Veneto, Italy, £68. BEST BUY
RED 2007 Ripa Delle More, Castello Vicchiomaggio, Piedmont, Italy, £64.
One of the best-known Italian chefs in London, Giorgio Locatelli has enjoyed a hugely successful career in the capital since his first stint in Anton Edelmann's kitchen at the Savoy 23 years ago. After a spell in Paris in the late 1980s, he returned to London to head up the kitchen at Olivio, building a solid reputation for rustic Italian food. He opened Chelsea eatery Zafferano for restaurateur Claudio Pulze, gaining a Michelin star in 1999, & went on to launch his own gaff, Locanda Locatelli, in 2002, winning a star the following year. The end of 2008 saw the appearance of Ronda Locatelli in the Atlantis The Palm hotel in Dubai. Giorgio's TV appearances include Pure Italian (UKTV Food) & Tony & Giorgio (BBC); he also has two cookery books to his name.
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