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Still one of the toughest tickets in town to get a table at, Locanda Locatelli combines a lasting ‘wow' factor with ‘warm, unpretentious' service. Appended to a hotel, the subdued leather-and-wood dining room has a low-level glow of contentment and a Damien Hirst on the wall; even during a businessy lunch service, it feels like an occasion. And why wouldn't diners appreciate Locatelli's approach to his beloved Italian food – beautiful, seasonal and driven by flavour? Great technique comes as standard, and classics such as ox tongue with salsa verde are rarely off the menu; readers also love the pappardelle with chicken livers and sage, as well as the spring lamb with morels and minted pea purée. To finish, Locatelli's spin on the traditional cassata is as light and sweet as the original, but with a sophisticated style that delights his worldly customers. Italophiles can have a field day with the patrician wine list, though naff-sounding cocktails and a slightly tired bar are a rare misstep.
As expected, a roll call of some of Italy’s best producers, Locanda Locatelli has built real buying power in this deeply patriotic list. You can sample big hitters from the likes of Gaja or Antinori, but those in the know prefer to explore the many boutique labels on offer instead.

One of the best-known Italian chefs in London, Giorgio Locatelli has enjoyed a hugely successful career in the capital since his first stint in Anton Edelmann's kitchen at the Savoy 23 years ago. After a spell in Paris in the late 1980s, he returned to London to head up the kitchen at Olivio, building a solid reputation for rustic Italian food. He opened Chelsea eatery Zafferano for restaurateur Claudio Pulze, gaining a Michelin star in 1999, & went on to launch his own gaff, Locanda Locatelli, in 2002, winning a star the following year. The end of 2008 saw the appearance of Ronda Locatelli in the Atlantis The Palm hotel in Dubai. Giorgio's TV appearances include Pure Italian (UKTV Food) & Tony & Giorgio (BBC); he also has two cookery books to his name.
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Saying it straight :: Liking Locanda Locatelli.
The unexpected death of Central London during the Olympics meant I could get in on an hour’s notice. That never usually happens here, where visits have to be planned weeks in advance...
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