Notting Hill Brasserie

Though it might be located in deepest W11, this is about as far from being a brasserie as could be imagined. Just off Kensington Park Road, the NHB has a small but elegant bar where a jazz trio plays, & a series of small, warmly lit dining rooms where customers sit on well-upholstered armchairs. The cooking is accomplished. To start, a creamy chicken liver & foie gras parfait with quail’s egg, lardons & brioche was decadent stuff while, to follow, a plump & fresh pan-fried fillet of halibut was mercifully light & came with well-flavoured accompaniments of Jerusalem artichoke puree, peas, feves & morels. White chocolate creme brulée with passionfruit & Champagne granita provided a sweet ending. Flawless service goes down well with a civilised clientele. Superior roasts are served up at Sunday lunch, when there’s a nanny in the playroom to look after the kids.