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Mugen

Address:26 King William Street, London EC4R 9AW
Tel:020 7929 7879
Website: Visit Mugen website
Price: £33.00Wine: £14.50 Champagne: £48.00
Opening Hours:Mon-Fri 12N-3pm 6-11pm

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‘Mugen’ means dream or fantasy in Japanese, but the charms of this smart modern restaurant at the north end of London Bridge are real enough, judging by the numbers of Japanese salarymen who frequent the place at lunchtime. A conveyor belt does the rounds, but Mugen’s style & comfort levels are a notch above the fast-food sushi norm. If you choose to graze from the main menu in the simple but attractive dining area, your sashimi options will include toro (fatty tuna) & marinated mackerel, while the long list of nigiri sushi ranges from razor clams to flying fish roe. Otherwise, there are well-stuffed bento boxes from £22. The choice of hot dishes is similarly extensive, taking in the obligatory grilled black cod with yuzu miso paste, plus deep-fried soft-shell crab & oddballs such as mozzarella tempura in Japanese stock.

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Reader reviews of Mugen:

Ray Jayner

Ray Jayner ( 30s, Male, United Kingdom )

No amount of fluffy eulogising here is going to square things with those to whom I have pooh-poohed Mugen in the past, on the strength that I had happened to see a rather distasteful display of dishcloths on a drying rack in the doorway on the way to work early one morning. Well it wasn’t just that, it’s just that I am such a champion of K10 and Soseki, but the former had stopped taking cards (hopefully just temporarily) and the latter has allegedly dropped their value £25 lunch, unverified at the time of writing. So perhaps it was fate or default that led me to taking lunch there last week. Not a dishcloth in sight as we breezed in the door and swung right to the more formal dining area. A sharp left will take you to the counter and the conveyor. Mugen certainly gives you the full range of Japanese cuisine and whilst I had intended to go sushi, sushi and yet more sushi, one of my hosts being a more experienced Mugen visitor suggested sushi, followed by a main course. Despite having had an amuse bouche of humble pie over the venue and a further slice as an appetizer over the menu selection I still had room to comply with the requested format. The sashimi of yellowtail and tuna was exquisite, cut perhaps a little firmer and thicker than some establishments in the capital and better for it. Some nigiri of Salmon tataki (a personal fave of the Jayner taste buds) was delicate and delightful as was the same of the sweet prawn. Moving through to the main courses, we had all opted for a Katsu and curry dish, and for my own account chose prawn. A spicy and sweetish affair, superbly rich but with excellent crispy prawns. Having done Mugen no justice in the past I certainly intend to make up for it in the future. The quality of the food is excellent and perhaps if I had bothered take off my dishcloth tinted glasses and walked past of a lunchtime and seen the dining crowd of which a good proportion were Japanese, then I might not have delayed my first visit for so long.

29 January 2010
Overall:8
Food and Drink:8
Service:7
Atmosphere:7
Value for Money:8
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