Rhodes Twenty Four

Understated corporate decor plays a supporting role at Gary Rhodes’ City flagship halfway up the former NatWest Tower, where stunning views combine with assured modern British cooking to generate a strong wow factor. For many, the ascent to the 24th floor may be a pricey undertaking, but it’s one that’s worth the expense & sure to impress clients. Typical dishes include steamed mutton & onion suet pudding with crushed swede, & bread & butter pudding to finish, though not everything on the menu is a homage to the stodge of yesteryear; you could opt for soft guinea fowl sausage with red wine, button onions, mushrooms & bacon, followed by steamed lemon sole with lobster champ potatoes. Like the tower’s lifts, prices on the wine list start low but climb rapidly; other minor quibbles focus on variable service, a certain lack of atmosphere & a very poor deal for vegetarians.