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Conceived in a far-off time before sushi chains & supermarket California rolls, Nambu-tei uses all the classic indicators – Japanese lanterns, teapots, posters – to let the world know what lies within. Tucked inside an old-fashioned arcade opposite Baker Street Tube, the ground floor (there are matted tatami rooms downstairs) is dominated by a baize-green carpet & sushi counter – although it also functions as a mini-community centre with notices & leaflets galore. A comprehensive selection of raw fish in various forms includes some reasonably priced platters, while lunchtime provides a great excuse for katsu & bento boxes. Noodles, tempura, teriyaki & topped rice bowls flesh out the repertoire, & everything is served with grace by a friendly team. Keen prices allow room for experimentation – & that extends to the saké selection.

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