Nahm

‘Using words to describe the heavenly cuisine at Nahm is pointless’ says one fan, but we’ll have a go. Australian chef David Thompson’s ability to marry ingredients & flavours is remarkable, resulting in multi-dimensional dishes that are a pleasure to eat. Diners are advised to order soup, salad, curry, stir-fry & relish for a typically rounded Thai meal. We find the food hard to fault, from pork & clam salad with dried prawns & pomelo to a fiery red beef curry with coriander, the tenderest squid stir-fried with samphire & a simple clear broth with minced pork dumplings to counteract the complex flavours of other dishes. But, though there’s rarely a bad word said about the food, nor the sweet but well-drilled service, Nahm does come under fire for lacking atmosphere. ‘I felt like I was sitting in a hotel breakfast room rather than a Michelin-starred restaurant,’ laments one diner &, sadly, we agree. Nahm would be absolutely exceptional if it was busier & had a livelier vibe.

Wine List: Nahm does not have the biggest of lists, but every wine on it is brilliantly chosen by sommelier Troy Sutton. Presented stylistically, it majors on fragrant fruit-driven wines that complement the food, so this means plenty of bottles from Germany, Alsace, Italy & the New World. Margins are fairly steep, so unless you are prepared to part with more than £30, your choice will be limited. Best Buy White 2004 Rolly Gassmann Pinot Blanc, Alsace, France, £35. Best Buy Red 2004 Catena Malbec, Mendoza, Argentina, £40.