Wood Green has its own ‘cultural quarter' these days – a defunct chocolate factory that is now home to artists and music studios, assorted creative types and this cool, cavernous eatery – ‘industrial and shabby, unfinished but a bit gothic', a real slice of New York boho-chic. Originally set up by Johnnie Mountain (of Great British Menu walk-out fame), Mosaica is now in different hands – although the kitchen still depends on London's market produce for robust renditions of braised oxtail with parsley mash, grilled lamb chops with orzo pasta, or gilthead bream with wild rocket and confit tomatoes. To finish, try ‘Johnnie's little tart' with beetroot parfait. The young staff are super-efficient, while liquid refreshment is provided by quaffable ales, lagers and plenty of creditable wines.
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