Moro

The greatest restaurant in the world.

Having dined in London's best restaurants over the last 15 years, there is one that still tops them all. Moro.

Fads come and go (Ramsey, Oliver, telephone directory menus, blowtorched snails, 30 minute sittings, tables without chairs) but only the truly great survive and Moro is such a place.

Moro isn't fancy and trendy. It just is. It is a place where lovers of food and conversation come. I genuinely get excited when it's time for lunch at Moro and last week I was delighted to get the table in the corner where the late Lucien Freud used to have a quick glass before nipping down the bookies on Exmouth Market.

From where I sat I had full view of the infamous bar where the action takes place. Moro is a place to people watch and if you are on your own, like I was, you can be a voyeur and feel good about it too. From frustrated writers pretending to write when they are really listening to the Guardian hack interviewing a junior minister for some gossip and insight to the men without wedding rinds entertaining their latest hire with promises of promotion, Moro is a soap opera. It is a place where the people come first and the food comes second. Which is how it should be. But the food comes a very close second. The quasi Morrocan-Med food is made with fresh ingredients and cooked lovingly by staff who have been at Moro for many years. Why go anywhere else, they say.

Moro always works and the food is always tongue tasting delicious. The staff have stories to tell and look after you like a long lost Uncle. You will not be disappointed.

Moro is packed and noisy today, which is usually how it is, and on the menu I have gone for my favourites because I knew I was writing this review. Cuttlefish, grilled pepper and cauliflower salad with pine nuts and mojo rojo. Wood roasted chicken with green olive, almond and chilli with tomato salsa and red lentil puree. And finally the Rosewater and cardamom ice cream. And a bottle of ‘Unico’ Gran Reserva 1999 which costs me the price of a Turnbull & Asser shirt. Heaven it was.

Moro is the benchmark against all other restaurants I shall be reviewing. Having a large expense account I am lucky to be able to experience London's best restaurants which is a good thing because London's restaurants are the best in the world. And Moro is still the best but I am determined to find one that is as good or maybe exceed it. A tall order but it's a challenge I am looking forward to.

FT

Consistently excellent. The only possible criticism is it's location, which if you don't live work in Islington probably makes it inconvenient, but it's well worth the inconvenience. The changing menu makes it a great place to visit as often as possible as you're never going top be bored with the unusual flavours. The wine list is long|(ish) and always full of unusual offerings at decent prices and the atmosphere is very buzzy!

I have been visiting Moro every few weeks for several years, virtually every time I meet clients in the UK.
I was there today and was sadly disappointed to find it has gone way downhill. The service was unbelievably slow, two orders were completely wrong and another dish was returned because there was some tissue on the plate. In fact the food was all over the place, I felt so embarrassed I ended up making excuses on behalf of the restaurant just to save some face in front of my guests. When the bill finally came I made a comment that things were not exactly up to the usual standard and I did not expect to pay for one of the dishes that was returned and I was told, “sorry we have to have full payment, you were offered a replacement.” We had no time and had to go, I paid but won’t be going back I can tell you that.

We've been here quite a few times over the years, usually just before or after something at the Almeida or Sadlers Wells.

It’s a decent buzzy busy restaurant, serving consistently good, simple and tasty Spanish / Moorish dishes. On our last visit our sardines were very fresh and very nicely prepared, cooked and presented, as was our lamb; although the lamb was luke warm. On previous occasions, we've had some very tasty tapas dishes. The food may not be great, but its always reasonable or good.

We normally seem to pay £60-£65 for 2 for 2 courses, inc service, ex all drinks. Seems fair. They have a very good Iberian wine selection with a wide range of prices. Normally get something interesting and good for c£35. Total bills are normally £140 – £160.

I think service is the weakest part of their offering, since it can vary a lot. Waiting staff are not always that friendly, and can be very slow and sometimes forgetful. However, front of house are normally very good.

Overall, I think it’s a good place, but perhaps they simply struggle to cope with their own 2hr table churn policy ? We've always found Moro to be noticeably better and more pleasant at their much quieter times, such as a late evening mid-week dinner or late afternoon tapas.

Worth trying, especially at a non-standard time.

Having lived in Islington for many years, we were very excited about going to Moro- in fact we chose it as the venue for dinner with friends from other parts of London, thinking that it would be a good representation of the local restaurant scene. What a disappointment- extreme complacency seems to have set in there. It seems virtually impossible to get through by telephone- but that doesn't stop them requiring reconfirmation of the reservation. Two of our guests were unable to make it, one due to illness, and when we explained that we would only be seven we were greeted with a scowl and roll of eyes at the counter! It's not as though the place is too cheap for diners to expect basic courtesy. The table-service was good, but the incredible rudeness of our reception rankled with everyone. Followed up by decent but certainly sub-Islington gastropub food, we were left wondering what all the fuss was about. Is this a place that made a good reputation for itself, sold a few cook-books, and has been resting on those laurels ever since? It certainly seems that way.

I hadn't been before, but thought the food and service were no more than OK, although the wine was good. One of my companions had a chocolate and yoghurt pudding which was positively unpleasant! Won't go back.

You might be surprised to find superb seafood in this Spanish restaurant in the heart of Clerkenwell meat country but the fire-oven grilled whole bream I had recently was among the best pieces of fish I've had in London; prepared in a wonderful, savoury Morroccan-influenced yoghurt sauce. As for meat, our starter of sausage, morels and egg all jumbled together was scrumptious and like a wacky Iberian take on “matzah brei” (for readers who might be devotees of this jewish breakfast comfort food) or you might just call it a lovely, soft frittata. Moro was recommended to us by a great NYC chef who used to live and cook in London (he now owns the italian gem Barbuto in Greenwich Village) and he was right on the mark; the vibe is also very like Barbuto – informal and jolly! Great wine, fine and appreciative service – super all 'round! (13 April 2010)

Quick review for Moro. Hadn't been for years and looking forward to it. Had a table booked for a 7 to 9 slot which in itself always feels a bit insulting but fair enough if a venue can get away with it. What followed was being told that we had 2 hours firstly on arrival … and then again after 15 minutes when one of our party hadn't arrived … then 15 minutes later when we hadn't ordered (the kitchen “likes” to have the order in by half an hour into the booking and we would hate to put them out) and then as soon as we finished our mains. You'll be glad to hear we made it out of the door at a minute or two after nine.

The food was tasty but nothing you couldn't knock up after a trip to Brindisa. For me, a restaurant that has forgotten the soul that made it special and is now a machine enjoying the income its fame has created.

The food at Moro is amazing. We had a fish dish and steak and both were to die for. Very different, but amazing flavours. We shared a rose petal ice cream which has to be one of the best desserts I've ever had. The cocktails here are fab as well, as is the wine list. We found the service prompt and friendly and the great thing about Moro is that it is surrounded by half a dozen bars to continue your evening in. Definitely worth a visit.

Excellent tapas menu. I have never tried the restaurant menu, but always sticked to the bar menu (been there over 5 times). A choice of wine is very extensive and suits all budgets. The place is always busy and buzzing with vibe, which creates a perfect atmosphere for a casual dinner at a local restaurant.
As for recommendations – definitely try patatas bravas and tortilla! One of the best I've ever tried.