'Still cracking it after all this time', declares one fan of this Exmouth Market stalwart, which celebrated its ‘sweet sixteen' in 2012. No one is ever bored here, as Moro's open kitchen plays with unexpected Spanish, Middle Eastern and North African flavours and fragrances while the pavement tables and action-packed dining room (still a place to see and be seen) contribute to the electric atmosphere all night, every night. Wood-roasting and char-grilling are the preferred cooking methods, meaning ‘consistently excellent' rustic and punchy platefuls of dazzling produce from home and abroad. English asparagus served simply with almond sauce and sherry vinegar or porcini on toast with fino and pancetta, followed by Tunisian-inspired roast chicken with méchouia and chermoula are typical of the menu's geographical reach. Desserts are similarly inspired: perhaps Malaga-raisin ice cream or yoghurt cake with pistachios and pomegranates. The Iberian wine list is ‘full of unusual offerings at decent prices'.
Unsurprisingly, the focus here is entirely on Iberian wines. In fewer than 100 bins, it takes you from Lisbon to Priorat, adding 26 sherries. As well as tasting notes (for most), every wine is rated 1-5 (whites) and 6-10 (reds) to give an idea of style and weight.
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