It’s 15 years since Sam & Samantha Clark started Moro, & their Ibero-Moroccan stalwart seems to be coping well with the growing pains of teenagerdom. Signed cookbooks on the counter are a reminder of this starry venue’s enduring success, but for the most part it seems as informal, jolly & unpretentious as it’s always been. Tightly packed tables give the dining room a terrific sense of fun – & it’s perfect if you enjoy watching seasonal signature dishes being rendered with characteristic swagger in the open kitchen. Begin with a homage to Catalonia – butifarra with dressed grelos (turnip tops) – before feasting on a big-hearted Iberian classic such as pollo aijillo with chickpeas & spinach. Moorish influence is seldom very far away (mixed vegetable mezze, for example) & desserts also revel in the exotic – rosewater & cardamom ice cream, say. Sherry takes pride of place on the Iberian wine list, or take your pick from the range of zingy cocktails.
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