This bright-yellow tribute to Formula 1 turns the music (& the visuals) up so loud that regulars can’t help wondering whether the management would prefer to be running a nightclub instead. Monza is certainly no shrinking violet: every bit of wall space is festooned with memorabilia, patterns on the pillars mimic the sport’s chequered flag, & staff wear Ferrari-red T-shirts. The menu is fairly priced for this part of town, but offers few surprises: tricolore salad, beef carpaccio & calf’s liver with butter & sage are all here, with veal milanese topping the readers’ hit list. In fact, the only detours from the trattoria norm are a fish special & homemade pasta such as tortellini with black-truffle sauce. The wine list includes some very exclusive bottles, such as a 1967 Mouton-Rothschild.
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