Mu

The formerly unpronounceable Mju has changed its name to easy-speak Mu, but the restaurant still suffers from its location: you have to walk through the Millennium hotel & up some stairs to find the rather formal dining room. Inside, the place feels muted, despite efficient staff & an evident passion for the food. The menu has lost its modish Asian slant. Now, the likes of pot-roast guinea fowl with buttered leeks & redcurrant jus, or feuillantine of baby vegetables with morels & truffle sabayon, speak of a keen interest in all things European. The results are more than acceptable. Even so, customers are mostly hotel guests, rather than the glittering crowd who pile into nearby venues where the chefs have more pulling power.

Wine List: The list has been rationalised a little since the name change, but its core values remain, so expect lots of fruit-driven wines for the Asian food, led by an impressive New World selection with Australia & Chile shining. Gone are many of the rare old vintages from Australia that supplied the wow factor, but hunt around & you’ll find plenty of gems. Best Buy White 2006 Sauvignon Blanc ‘Life from Stone’ Springfield Estate, Robertson, South Africa, £34. Best Buy Red 2004 Tempranillo Tempus Two, Hunter Valley, Australia, £24.