It suffered under the crash, but the Met Bar is back with a brand-new look that mixes black lava surfaces with bright banoffee & butterscotch luxe – although the room is still recognisable (& still open to non-members). Its cocktails are pure Park Lane at upwards of £12 a go: investigate storm in a teacup (Tanqueray, Aperol, orgéat, cacao & fresh lime) served with Turkish delight, or dig into a root down (a Chase vodka, lemon, ginger & cinnamon-sugared mule with beetroot purée). Small plates include kedgeree cakes, Scotch eggs & ham-hock terrine with beet & pickled-walnut salad, while a fuller menu satisfies lunching ladies with posh fish & chips or wild mushroom lasagne. Yes, it’s chic, polished & smart, but we can’t help feeling The Met’s soul may have disappeared with its well-worn interior.
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