Memories of China

Almost a carbon copy of Ken Lo's Belgravia original, Memories of China woos Kensington locals with the same mix of pared-down, classy interiors and reliable Cantonese cooking. Standards are consistently high and the decor effortlessly attractive, with ornate screens creating a sense of intimacy among the white-clothed tables. The kitchen delivers sophisticated comfort food without too many challenges, from classic starters of spare ribs and steamed scallops with ginger to the usual line-up of staples with sweet-and-sour sauce, black beans and chilli. Luxury also abounds in the shape of sizzling lobster dishes, and those planning ahead should factor in the whole roast Peking duck, which needs to be ordered a day in advance. There are also some eminently drinkable wines to wash it all down.