The Landau

Banishing stuffy memories of Memories, The Langham hotel's former dining room, its new restaurant combines the talents of London's foremost restaurant designer, David Collins, with the chef who was at the forefront of introducing Londoners to grazing meals, Andrew Turner. Collins's interior is his signature update of old-school hotel glamour – wood panelling, clever lighting & candy-coloured leather seating, as well as a new street entrance – while Turner has lost none of his knack for turning out beautifully presented, appetiser-sized dishes. Highlights include the light earthiness of pumpkin soup with ceps, quail egg & slices of fresh truffle, the seaside zip of crab & avocado with lemon myrtle, & a standout dish of superbly rich Devonshire lamb cutlet with confit mutton breast, artichokes & jus gras. If eating five to eight doll-size dishes sounds too dainty, many are available full-size on the a la carte. Service is notably friendly for a five-star hotel, while tall windows make this an appealing breakfast venue.

Wine List: This is a wonderful wine list. Too many hotel restaurants apply painful margins and treat anyone with £30 to spend as an afterthought. Not so The Landau. Pricing is restrained and there is a wealth of interesting wine under £30 to choose from. Each section comes with well-written notes, while the wine buyer has persuaded some of the world’s great vignerons to release rare old vintages and provide more words of wisdom. Best Buy White La Roche Pouilly-Fuissé 2004, Bret Brothers, Mâconnais, Burgundy, France, £46. Best Buy Red Novas Syrah-Mourvèdre 2004, Colchagua, Chile, £29.