Orange banquettes & a textured ceiling suggest that the Mandarin Kitchen has changed little since it opened in the 70s, but that’s no deterrent to the swarms of mostly oriental customers who regularly pack this Chinese seafood specialist. Its lobster dishes have a near-legendary reputation, & the kitchen gets through a thousand of these luxury crustacea each week: choose from six versions, including steamed with ginger & spring onion or braised with black bean & green pepper sauce, but be sure to order some soft noodles on the side. Mandarin’s maritime menagerie also extends to steamed scallops & razor clams with garlic & soy sauce, roasted baby squid with chilli, steamed sea bass & various takes on crab, eel, turbot & others. Table 19, with its semi-circular orange booth, is great for groups.
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