Malabar Junction

The tiny, lacklustre frontage of this 15-year-old South Indian specialist belies an impressive colonial interior stretching out towards the back, with high ceilings, luxuriant greenery & a vaulted skylight. It’s a fabulously evocative space, although the surroundings can be let down by inconsistent service (veering from warmly hospitable to tactless & painfully slow). Thankfully, the kitchen performs better, & the new head chef has introduced some interesting specialities including deep-fried kingfish in spiced chickpea batter, alongside popular dishes such as masala dosa (savoury/sour rolled pancakes filled with spicy mashed potato). A new tandoor oven has perked up the possibilities on the meat front, but for something punchier try the signature Keralan fish curry. Prices are competitive & the £12.95 express lunch is good value.