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23 July 2014
(menu)

Malabar Junction

107 Great Russell Street, London WC1B 3NA

£36.00 Indian Bloomsbury, Fitzrovia
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  • Wine: £11.50
  • Champagne: £28.00
  • Opening Hours: Mon-Sun 12N-3pm 6-11pm

Square Meal Review of Malabar Junction ?

The tiny, lacklustre frontage of this 15-year-old South Indian specialist belies an impressive colonial interior stretching out towards the back, with high ceilings, luxuriant greenery & a vaulted skylight. It’s a fabulously evocative space, although the surroundings can be let down by inconsistent service (veering from warmly hospitable to tactless & painfully slow). Thankfully, the kitchen performs better, & the new head chef has introduced some interesting specialities including deep-fried kingfish in spiced chickpea batter, alongside popular dishes such as masala dosa (savoury/sour rolled pancakes filled with spicy mashed potato). A new tandoor oven has perked up the possibilities on the meat front, but for something punchier try the signature Keralan fish curry. Prices are competitive & the £12.95 express lunch is good value.

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