The name and the ‘cheesy cookie-cutter’ decor should tell you what to expect at this dyed-in-the-wool Italian – the original of a small London-wide chain specialising in crisp-crusted, wood-fired pizzas by the metre. Rustic rag-rolled walls, checked tablecloths, terracotta flowerpots and an upstairs terrace with ‘people-watching potential’ set the scene for a ‘cheap and cheerful’ laminated menu of classic combos served in 25cm lengths: ortolana combines mozzarella, cherry tomatoes, olives, grilled aubergines and sun-dried tomatoes, while Fra Rosario involves roasted potatoes, sausage, onion and capers. Otherwise opt for some pasta – perhaps a generous mound of spaghetti vongole with ‘enough clams to keep you busy’. Service is matter-of-fact, but gets the job done – ideal for the target audience of youngsters dining en masse, families with kids and others simply after a quick order-and-go.
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