A longstanding exponent of rarely found Goan cooking, Ma Goa has become a local favourite with those looking for something more than the curry-house norm. Pass through the slightly theme-led reception to a clean, modern dining room that, were it not for the art on the walls & the aromas from the kitchen, could be serving any cuisine. Well-turned-out waiters bring heavy, carefully annotated menus (with a wine list carefully selected to match the spicy food). Longevity seems to have led to a loss of spark, however. Those smart waiters can be brusque, & dishes such as galina xacutti (chicken with sesame & coconut & green chillies) can seem workaday. While everything’s perfectly adequate, the restaurant appears to lack its former focus. Let’s hope this experience was merely a blip.
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