This pint-sized bistro can seem marooned from fashion & insulated from the ways of the outside world in its little enclave on bustling Shepherd Market. Inside, all is box-like & unremarkable, & the food is serviceable stuff suited to a quick, pop-in/pop-out, unchallenging bite – perhaps baked Camembert, fried baby squid, Ardennes pâté, green-lipped mussels in garlic butter, braised lamb shank or calf’s liver & mash. These anachronistic staples are hard to get wrong, but for a dinner destination or client lunch, The Little Square’s lack of a distinct style or seasonal awareness are definite warning signs – although service is competent & prices are low for the area. Expect touristy crowds at lunchtime & promising people-watching opportunities from the sought-after outdoor tables in fine weather.
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