The Light

As the City’s skyscrapers creep ever closer to The Light, its website appeals for support against threatened redevelopment of the old power station which houses this stark modern restaurant & bar, providing a shining example of how to bring industrial premises back to life. The cavernous bar couldn’t be more stripped back & the garden has an appealing urban toughness. Things soften up in the restaurant, where you can tuck into the likes of poached hake with Gruyere & marjoram crust, pancetta & red wine sauce or a filo pastry tart of home-smoked tomato with globe artichoke. There’s plenty of sub-£20 choice on the wine list with masses by the glass; more prestige bottles include a Crozes-Hermitage Clos des Grives Domaine Crombier 2001 at £30.