A Primrose Hill institution, warm-hearted Lemonia has been touting its Hellenic wares for decades & little ever changes. The smell of charcoal-grilled meat wafting down the street still draws a steady stream of passers-by, but most diners are regulars – because once you’ve visited this upmarket Greek taverna, you’ll want to return. With unbuttoned collars, the all-male brigade of staff whizz around the sprawling, bucolically styled interior with gusto, delivering plate after plate of hot & cold mezze: creamy taramasalata, garlicky tzatziki, piping-hot slices of haloumi cheese & tasty spanakopita in a crisp filo shell. Main courses are all about skewered meats, which come dripping with flavour, but grilled fish appeals to more delicate palates while moussaka & stifado (beef stew) suit bigger appetites. Outdoor tables get snapped up like hot cakes in summer.
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