Noisy parties, birthdays and family celebrations are Lemonia's stock-in-trade, which may explain regular queues for seats at this little piece of package-holiday Greece transplanted to chic Primrose Hill. ‘The furniture looks as if it's been here since they opened some 30 years ago', notes one first-timer and the food has the same reassuring familiarity – silky hoummos with warm pitta bread, aubergine salad, loukanika sausages, fried calamari, char-grilled meaty skewers, hearty helpings of moussaka and some decent grilled fish, plus the obligatory sticky pastries, floral honey and thick yoghurt. Service is of the ‘mature', unhurried kind, so go with the flow and don't worry if you feel that you've been forgotten – you haven't. Sit outside on a warm, balmy evening with a bottle of Retsina and think about booking your easyJet flight again.
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