Ortega

The decor is sexed-up Spain – blown-up posters, backlit earthenware objets, bullfight motifs – but someone at Ortega clearly has their feet on the ground, for the tapas bar has proved a hit with its contented buzz, friendly & efficient service & civilised noise levels. The food, though competently done, doesn’t quite live up to the promise of the setting: the cazuela de pescado – Catalan fish stew with hake, cod, prawns, scallops & mussels – has great flavour but is rather stingy on the fish, while the sauce on the patatas bravas is rather timidly spiced. Veggie choice is good, there are paellas to share & the dessert menu delivers comfort rather than authenticity. The wine list is short, affordable & Hispanic.