Fans of silent movies may remember that Laughing Gravy was Laurel & Hardy's dog in the film of the same name; it was also one of the slang pseudonyms for illegal booze during Prohibition. But this revamped eatery is no joke when it comes to the business of food, hospitality and drinking. Occupying the ground floor of an old foundry building within easy reach of the Old and Young Vic theatres, it offers seasonal British flavours aplenty – from duck and rabbit Scotch eggs to peanut flapjacks via scallops with champ or cider-marinated lamb rump with broad-bean piccalilli, truffled peas and parsnip hash. Steaks, burgers and salads make up the numbers, with Neal’s Yard cheeses to round things off. Alternatively, head to the buzzy bar for sociable drinks or an after-hours’ nightcap. ’Professional, friendly service’ is the icing on the cake.
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