Despite a minor touch-up back in 2008 & the more recent addition of Sunday lunch, Langan’s never modernises – it simply carries on, propped up by rarely changing, somewhat autopilot retainers & a fiercely loyal clientele. ‘Top-notch proper food & a cracking atmosphere’ they scream, impressed by the prodigious art collection. Yet first-timers may find both the ambience & the food old-fashioned. Nostalgia is the real attraction here, & it’s typified by a menu of staunch Anglo-French hits ranging from prawn & avocado cocktail to steak haché with fried egg & onion rings – although gentle hints of the Med come through in the shape of sea bass & spinach with sun-dried tomatoes or grilled swordfish buried in rocket & Parmesan. Desserts are a stodgy set of nursery fillers from treacle tart to jam roly-poly – at proper Piccadilly prices.
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