For Londoners who enjoyed Kettner’s when the Champagne still came with pizza, the glam refurb hasn’t quite hit the spot; others, however, reckon it ‘keeps getting better’ – particularly since the pianist was installed & the cocktail barmen came up with new tipples such as the sour VII & High & Wilde, in honour of clients of old. The Champagne list is still a big draw, with 10 by the glass, & a different marque showcased every month. It’s a ‘wonderful’ building, & the mood is convincingly special; the only let-down at present is the humdrum brasserie food, which is no more than ‘fine’ – although a new chef is allegedly on the way. The private rooms, including the roomy, panelled ‘apartment’, are classy, & the Champagne bar has bookable nooks.
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