After going off the boil since its Rowley Leigh glory years, owner D&D London hopes that a refurb & new chef will breathe fresh life into Kensington Place. At the very least, the new interiors give the site a clean break from the 90s, keeping the informal vibe & pretty mural but updating the furniture & flooring, while the new menu focuses predominantly on seafood – no surprise, given the fishmonger’s next door. A smoked fish ‘board’ makes a gutsy start to proceedings, although skate wing with beurre noisette is upstaged by an excellent roast grouse with all the trimmings. Classics such as salt-cod fishcakes & moules marinière are available at more wallet-friendly prices, while the chocolate brownie & caramel sundae dessert is outstanding. Breezy, polite service matches the relaxed mood, the wine list is unpretentious, & there’s a communal table for big bashes.
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