Memories of China

Hiding behind retro smoked glass & with almost 30 years behind it, Ken Lo’s is a surprisingly up-to-date operation. Evidently well kept, the dining room feels modern & comfortable & the friendly staff aren’t resting on their laurels. It takes consistency for a restaurant to survive this long – & that’s something Ken Lo still offers in spades. Despite a bafflingly lengthy menu, its cooking is never less than precise & the kitchen seems equally comfortable dishing up superior versions of classics like sweet & sour chicken or crispy beef as it is turning out light seafood dishes packed with punchy modern flavours. Among the signature dishes is an excellent stir-fry of lobster, ginger & spring onion, best enjoyed with a side order of fresh flash-fried asparagus. None of it comes particularly cheap but most agree it’s very ‘good value for money’.