Though Kai feels very much like an old-school top-end Chinese – muted colours, kind lighting, charming, deferential staff – its cooking has always kept pace with the times. Yes, you’ll find
faultlessly prepared versions of the classic Cantonese repertoire, but also plenty of interest for those who want some creativity to justify the punishing Mayfair prices. King prawns spread with
wasabi-infused mayonnaise & scattered with basil seed & mango cubes makes an intriguingly sweet & hot starter; even more intriguing is the deboned lamb shank segments, served in a
martini glass with a creamy topping of chicken & garlic (typical of the often elaborate presentation). A main course of roasted pork belly with apple, mint leaves & a sauce of sesame,
chilli & rice wine seems simple in comparison, yet flavours are just as finely balanced. The wine list holds few bargains, with the prestige regions of Europe to the fore.
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