Kai is one of London’s big-ticket Chinese restaurants, offering a menu unlike any other, which balances extravagant fusion with an earnest desire to stay true to its roots. Don’t think about the pound signs, just look at the detailing in every dish, the stellar ingredients & the delightfully clever gastronomic twists. ‘Oriental lamb shank’ (in a 12-ingredient marinade) is topped with chicken & garlic crème; the ‘sea of eight treasures’ soup features wolfberries, tofu & gold; then there’s beef with ginger & spring onions, here made with Wagyu. This is food to thrill the Mayfair smart set who thought they’d seen it all. A lunchtime tasting menu (£39) hints at what’s possible when money’s no object, & the only downer (apart from the bill) is the lack of pizzazz in the rather ‘corporate’ dining room.
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