According to one reader, you need to buy into Julie’s ‘profoundly bohemian philosophy’ to get the most from this Notting Hill evergreen. The warren of rooms can feel like a conceptual stroll through the pages of an interior-design magazine, with each space sporting a different theme – from gothic chic to a virgin-white Tuscan vibe. However, Julie’s 45-year residency hereabouts suggests it must be doing something right – even if most regulars now come here for the atmosphere rather than the ‘average’ food. The cooked is firmly rooted in the Mediterranean – from seared-salmon Niçoise through to crisp-skinned chicken with black truffles, spinach and white-port sauce – although desserts such as a custard slice with blueberries come with a noticeable British accent. Alfresco brunch on the pedestrian square is a charming proposition.
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