Il Convivio

Many reckon this elegant yet friendly Italian is ‘the best in London’ & it’s certainly not far off. A welcoming maitre d’ heads the front of house but the real action is in Lukas Pfaff’s kitchen, from which we’ve experienced nothing but excellent cooking; standout dishes include the braised veal shank cannelloni with crisp crackling & wild sea bass with Jerusalem artichokes & wild mushrooms. The interior – done out in red, white & gold & strikingly lit at night – is, well, convivial, a combination of airy conservatory with retractable roof adjoining a chic limestone & cedar wood main room.

Wine List: Bar a smattering of international bins, this is a fine all-Italian list. It is set out by grape variety, which serves to highlight the huge array of varietals planted across this country, but the lack of regional information after each wine makes for a confusing read. There is, however, a good mix of wines from classic & lesser-known areas, with Piedmont a particular highlight. Twelve by-the-glass choices complete a good list. Best Buy White 2006 Cantina Terlano Pinot Bianco, Alto Adige, Italy, £29.50. Best Buy Red 2005 Morellino di Scansano, Barbi, Italy, £29.50.