Those seeking a compulsory side order of designer decor & Z-lister spotting with their Japanese fix will find little attraction in Ikeda, where food is the star of the show. Revered dishes include flame-seared o-toro (tuna) steak gleaming with warm fat, exemplary black cod glazed in miso, silky chawan mushi custard spiked with citrus, & signature king crab legs seared under a roasting grill. It’s premium stuff, & it doesn’t come cheap, although set lunches are an easy way in: £16.50 pays for the tempura version, while the top-drawer sushi selection (from £24) features spanking-fresh turbot, mackerel, shrimps, scallops & the like. Mrs Ikeda & her smiling brigade run front-of-house, while son Dai assists in an open kitchen that adds some much-needed theatre to an otherwise drab room.
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