Set up by Mrs Junko in 2000, Ichi-Riki (literally ‘one power’) references the symbol of an old samurai family – although there’s nothing intimidating about this subterranean, canteen-style eatery with its cosy wooden sushi bar. Local office workers and shoppers crowd the place at lunchtime, when various set deals such as chicken yakitori or salmon teriyaki on rice with accompaniments are ferried from the kitchen at break-neck speed. Otherwise, the menu offers a range of sparklingly fresh sashimi, maki rolls and nigiri (from £4 for two pieces), plus an assortment of mixed ‘sets’ with pickles and miso soup. To finish, refresh your palate with green-tea ice cream or Japanese pancakes and a cup of oolong tea. Space is at a premium, but all is jovial – thanks to the good humour of cheerful young staff.
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