Despite a change of chef in 2011, the thoroughbred Harwood Arms remains ‘a must on the gastropub scene’ – a view shared by Michelin, who tout it as their only starred watering-hole in London.
Expect chummy informality, bare tables, real ales & cheery service rather than high-end reverence or pomposity. ‘Satisfyingly flavourful’ wild rabbit & prune faggots are served with
celeriac purée & pickled mushrooms, grilled Cornish mackerel arrives with heritage tomatoes & sea purslane, while a warm salad of thinly sliced pork belly is embellished with soft-boiled
pheasant’s eggs, green beans, crispy pig’s ear & piccalilli. As for dessert, think chilled rice pudding with English strawberries or doughnuts with lemon curd – all top-notch, defiantly British
stuff. Prices seem to have crept up of late, but the overall quality is seldom in doubt. Carefully chosen wines, too.
WINE LIST: Wines are split up by country, and each bottle is given a decent description, irrespective of price. You’ll also find ‘seasonal wine specials’, along with 30 available by the
glass. BEST BUY WHITE 2010 Domaine Felines Jourdan, Picpoul e Pinet, Languedoc, France, £29. BEST BUY RED 2007 Domaine de Mourchon, Tradition, Séguret, Côtes du Rhône Villages, Rhône,
France, £34.
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