Retsina

Upper-class Athenians would surely approve of this stylish Belsize Park taverna. The bright, contemporary design, starched white tablecloths & squeaky-clean crockery make for something more upmarket than your average Zorba experience, though the food doesn’t depart far from tradition. Start with ubiquitous dips (creamy taramasalata, hoummos & tzatziki) & various hot mezze favourites (grilled haloumi, spanakopita & stuffed vine leaves), before a range of excellent souvlakis which can be ordered singly or as part of a mixed bag made from different ingredients (pork, chicken, liver et al). Baklava is the only way to finish. The all-Hellenic wine list displays an admirable desire to keep it in the family, & you won’t pay more than £16 a bottle for the pleasure. Reports suggest one Achilles heel: service has been berated as ‘arrogant & pushy’, although this is tempered by descriptions of ‘cheeky Greek waiters’ & a thoroughly welcoming atmosphere.