Oozing the kind of sex appeal that ‘makes you feel alive’, Hakkasan can be confident of its place among London’s elite restaurants. Yes, the kitchen has a Michelin star, but punters flock here for
more than exquisite ‘modern authentic’ Cantonese cuisine. As much about fashion as gastronomy, the glamorous subterranean dining room is imbued with a sultry vibe that’s enhanced by moody indigo
lighting & is best suited to night-time, or ‘lunch on dark winter days’. Dine on dazzling lunchtime dim sum (steamed king crab noodle wrap, say, or crispy smoked duck & pumpkin puff) or
equally thrilling dishes from the carte. Jasmine tea-smoked pork ribs have a sweet, subtle smokiness, while silky roasted silver cod in syrupy Champagne & Chinese honey sauce is a sensual
delight. Even desserts are exquisite: imagine muscovado cake offset by ginger ice cream. Knowledgeable staff can come across as ‘arrogant’, prices eye-watering & the two-hour time limit an
irritation, but these are ‘small minuses in an army of pluses’. Don’t miss a lychee martini at the seductive long bar.
Wine List: Wine buyer Christine Parkinson has created an innovative, food-focused gem of a list. Wines are put through a rigorous tasting panel & listed under quirky headings such as
‘Harmony’ or ‘Curious Vines’ – which could easily be confusing but is not. It’s worth taking advice from staff on matching with food. Best Buy White 2008 Kerner, Valle Isarco, Alto Adige,
Italy, £32. Best Buy Red 2007 El Curato Joven Tinto, Bodega Cillar de Silos, Ribera del Duero, Spain, £38.
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