High-rolling Hakkasan has lost none of it sexy exclusivity over the years, & its subterranean dining room remains shrouded in a glamorous glow of moody indigo lighting. The Michelin-starred
kitchen takes Cantonese cuisine as its marker, but quickly moves into a world of thrilling innovation & edgy experimental ideas, with ‘amazing’ results. An extended list of refined dim sum wows
the lunchtime crowds, while the carte brings other sensations, including silky roast silver cod with Champagne & honey sauce, hot-&-sour soft-shell crab, & a daring marriage of Peking
duck with beluga caviar. Desserts tend to be wacky crossovers, & the exotic fruit platter is ‘a great talking point’. The pace is frenetic (the two-hour turnaround can be irksome), service
sometimes lacks grace, & the bill is likely to be ‘hard on the wallet’, but Hakkasan’s place among London’s gastro-elite is assured. The cocktail bar also seduces customers with its über-slinky
atmosphere (‘like something out of Sex & the City’) & ‘tantalising’ mixes.
Wine List: An outstanding list put together by London’s most thoughtful wine buyer, Christine Parkinson. The design seems to have little logic at first glance, with bins appearring under
headings such as ‘Curious vines: distinctive wines’ or our favourite, ‘Biodynamics: spiritual wine’. But, it succeeds brilliantly as each group has a distinct style running through it. All are
tasted with the food & don’t be afraid to put yourself in the hands of the knowledgeable team. Best Buy White 2007 Santorini, Hatzidakis Winery, Santorini, Greece, £26. Best Buy
Red 2004 The Cabernets Skillogalee, Clare Valley, South Australia, £51.
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