
‘It’s dark, it’s noisy & it’s expensive’, but this overtly sexy, A-list haunt continues to lure fashion seekers, high rollers & the occasional oligarch. The attraction is a throbbing
subterranean space divided by ornate fretwork, with moody illumination & spotlights over each table. Cantonese cooking with a luxurious, Michelin-starred edge is the kitchen’s remit, &
Hakkasan scores heavily with its top-end dim sum – although that’s just the start. Order from the carte & you can expect a procession of ‘phenomenal’ dishes running from a ‘glorious’ crispy
lamb salad interleaved with slivers of melon to delicately steamed king-crab legs with spicy yellow bean sauce or braised pork belly in plum sauce infused with kumquats (‘a triumph’). The Singapore
noodles are ‘utterly fabulous’, & there are always plenty of takers for glamorous cocktails in the slinky bar. The bill might ‘make you screech’ & the two-hour limit on tables is rigorously
observed, but Hakkasan remains an enduringly hot ticket.
WINE LIST: A groundbreaking list. Hakkasan’s wines are split up into unique sections, such as ‘Blends – the art of the winemaker’ (varietal blends) & ‘Purity: the expression of the
fruit’ (unoaked wines). But considering this is a Michelin-starred restaurant, there are some very affordable bottles. BEST BUY WHITE 2008 d’Arenberg, The Hermit Crab, McLaren Vale, South
Australia, Australia, £35. BEST BUY RED 2006 Alpha Domus, The Navigator, Hawkes Bay, New Zealand, £40.
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