Tourists who cast aspersions on traditional British food should try The Guinea Grill, insists a loyal regular. A microcosm of vintage Mayfair ringing with claret-fuelled guffaws, it nestles behind a pub frontage in the clubbiest of rooms, all clustered white-clothed tables in a wood-panelled wrapper. Jacket-&-tie staff, including London’s longest-serving sommelier, play their ever-smiling parts with almost comical gusto, while a lone chef tends the furiously hot grill behind displays of prime, dry-aged fillets, rib-eyes & rumps from the Scotch Beef Club. The kitchen also sends out acclaimed suet-crusted pies by the score, as well as more delicate dishes such as pan-fried trout with olive & capers or Caesar salad flecked with roast salmon. For afters, big helpings of suitably robust sticky toffee pudding or rhubarb crumble may necessitate ‘loose-fitting clothes’.
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