The fact that Naomi Campbell has been spotted at the discreetly elegant Greenhouse suggests this former stronghold of pinstriped masculinity is now attracting a more cosmopolitan clientele. As for the cooking, the recent award of two Michelin stars tells its own story as the kitchen delivers consummate high-end food with modish European accents. To start, a ‘highly engineered’ combo of Cornish crab brings together emerald-coloured mint jelly, pale cauliflower cream, diced apple and notes of curry, while veal sweetbreads keep company with artichoke, caperberries, coffee and Parmesan. Among the mains, our favourite is perhaps the simplest: the tenderest slices of Yorkshire Galloway beef, accompanied by a deep-fried ball of garlicky mash and a fringe of micro leaves. By contrast, desserts such as praline with popcorn, coffee and cocoa are impressively intricate. The Greenhouse also knows how to impress in other ways, with well-spaced tables, a phalanx of dutiful staff and a world-class 3,000-strong wine list.
Dripping with expensive bottles and rare vintages, The Greenhouse’s list is mind-boggling in size – just keeping track of all the wines must be a full-time job. Yet, for all the nine vintages of DRC (the 1929 is a snip at £17,500), and jaw-dropping selections of first-growth claret (14 vintages of Latour!), the line-up of wines from areas like Alsace, the South of France and Australia really impressed.
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