Green's Restaurant & Oyster Bar

Located in the heart of St James’s, owned by Simon Parker Bowles & stuffed with studded leather banquettes surrounded by mahogany panelling, restaurants don’t come much more Establishment than Green’s. But, as one reader says, ‘if you can get over the fact that the majority of the clientele are men over 40, you’ll have found a hidden gem.’ Beautifully prepared fish & seafood dishes made from first-rate ingredients are what’s on offer, with a light hand in the kitchen guarding against accusations that Green’s is wilfully old-fashioned. Potted shrimps or smoked eel might be followed by fillet of halibut with a mussel veloute, baby onions & spinach, or fillet of sea bass with potato & basil croquette, leeks & caper dressing. Desserts are resolutely old school – bread & butter pudding or chocolate & sherry trifle, say – & there’s surprisingly good choice under £30 on the wine list, plus interesting British beers & single malt whiskies. Regulars advise against eating in the basement: it’s judged ‘tired’ & ‘vaguely depressing’.