Green's Restaurant & Oyster Bar

It may have an outpost in the City, but the spiritual home of Green’s is really in plummy St James’s. This is where discreetly wealthy men in club ties & hand-made shoes come for their staple diet of oysters, lobster salad, steak tartare & traditionally garnished grouse – not forgetting proper puds (sticky toffee will do nicely). Their favourite seats are the capacious booths & perches at the animated Champagne & oyster bar – although the place isn’t as forbidding as it seems; the welcome is old-school chummy, & the cooking is equally reassuring. Cumberland bangers & mash, smoked-haddock ‘Parker Bowles’, & Welsh rarebit won’t frighten the thoroughbreds – although the size of the bill might. There are some interesting finds on the surprisingly modern wine list.