The very model of an old-school eatery, Gow’s is the place to go if you’re after traditional fish dishes served with a sprinkling of nostalgia. The ground floor has more of a bistro feel, but downstairs is the place for long lunches – all crisp white tablecloths & thick carpets. Don’t expect much in the way of wacky piscine skulduggery, either: battered cod with mushy peas, whole grilled Dover sole, & fried skate with lemon & capers are the order of the day at this Balls Brothers-owned venue. Lately, however, some readers have expressed concerns about ‘lazy prep’, ‘flavourless food’ & poor service. The BB wine list has plenty of refreshing white Burgundy & Loire Sauvignon Blanc to wash all that fish down, as well as a smattering from Bordeaux & the New World.
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