Gow's

Crisp white napery, splendid red leather chairs & a studied air of plush calm are the watchwords at this City institution which has been dispensing fish & oysters to the suits since 1884. These days, though, the colour palette in the basement restaurant is paler & more contemporary & Gow’s is part of the Balls Brothers empire. Lunch might start with a clear langoustine & fine herb broth or perhaps gulls’ eggs with celery salt & mustard cress before a whole lobster salad, shared seafood platter or perhaps steamed freshwater trout with beetroot creme fraiche. There are meat & veggie mains for those who prefer them; sandwiches, salads & light bites supplement the crustacea in the more informal ground floor oyster bar. The wine list is unsurprisingly strong on whites & Champagnes, with everything from a Joseph Perrier house offering to Cristal for those with bonuses to burn.