‘OK it's expensive, but so is a Chanel handbag,' quipped one first-timer after visiting Gordon Ramsay's well-groomed Chelsea flagship. Everyone gets the full treatment as this star-spangled venue goes through its paces, delivering a ‘truly magical' blend of good manners, silky service, masterly food and aristocratic, special-occasion wines. Following a refit, the dining room has some luxurious new art-deco features, a ‘liqueur library’ and a ‘chef’s experience’ table where the bar area used to be, but the most significant change is Clare Smyth’s elevation to the role of resident chef-patron. Far from simply impersonating her master's voice, she is re-establishing Royal Hospital Road as, arguably, the top dining destination of its kind in the capital. You can still relish the dishes that made this place world-famous (the matchless ravioli of lobster, langoustine and salmon with sorrel velouté, for example), but the real showstoppers are newly minted hits – from halibut and king crab with cauliflower couscous, ‘finger’ lime and a broth spiced with ras-el-hanout to lemonade parfait with honey, bergamot and sheep’s yoghurt sorbet. ‘When you've had the best, forget the rest', concludes one fan. Enough said.
Travel to Restaurant Gordon Ramsay in style with London's leading minicab firm Addison Lee.Get a quote »