
‘I’ve eaten around the world, but this is the one’, insists a reader who appreciates the sheer class of Gordon Ramsay’s flagship. Experienced hands run the show here, notably the charismatic &
irrepressible Jean-Claude Breton – a gleeful giant among maître d’s who ‘makes everyone feel special’ & ensures that the whole shebang purrs like a Bentley. In the kitchen, Clare Smyth has the
GR style down to a T, & knows how to put on a thoroughbred gastronomic performance. That spark of ‘inventiveness & originality’ is sometimes missing, but she is capable of delivering
beautiful, exquisitely crafted dishes, from a lobster, langoustine & salmon raviolo surrounded by swirls of bisque to a proudly erect soufflé concealing a layer of banana, salted caramel &
crunchy biscuit. In between, it’s flair all the way with the likes of butter-poached Dedham Vale beef with braised short ribs, ceps & roasted bone marrow. The intimate, discreetly luxe dining
room is pitch-perfect for a top-end experience that’s ‘worth every penny’.
WINE LIST: A great place to use your expense account as the list includes top crus from a number of regions. Otherwise, Gordon Ramsay is best saved for a treat, as the choice below £50 is
very limited. BEST BUY WHITE 2009 Schloss Gobelsburg, ‘Steinsetz’ Grüner Veltliner, Kamptal, Austria, £48. BEST BUY RED 2009 Friedrich Becker, Spätburgunder, Pfalz, Germany, £45.
It's hard to keep up with Gordon Ramsay. In a sky-rocketing career, he has gone from wannabe Scottish footballer to the most celebrated 'celeb' chef we love to hate. He has also become a global brand in the process, opening restaurants worldwide, fronting countless TV shows, advertising drinks & making friends with the Beckhams along the way. He even rivalled Alain Ducasse with 12 Michelin stars in 2008. Despite the recession, much publicised financial troubles & the occasional scandal, the Ramsay empire continues to expand, with fine-dining outlets in Versailles, New York, Hollywood, Sardinia & Tuscany alongside three gastropubs back in London, plus high-profile partnerships with the likes of Jason Atherton & Angela Hartnett. Meanwhile, his namesake restaurant & flagship in Chelsea recently retained its three Michelin stars for the ninth year running. Expect more openings, more stars, more books & more shows as the months progress.
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