A faithful servant of the Chinese culinary cause around London for more than 30 years, Good Earth is reckoned to be a sound performer – according to fans who like their food without voguish risk-taking or frippery. The Knightsbridge kitchen plays it straight, dishing up a catalogue of old-wave and regional standbys ranging from spring rolls and sesame prawn toasts to aromatic crispy duck, sizzling chicken with black beans or steamed sea bass with ginger and spring onions. Also look for pan-Asian interlopers in the shape of Thai satays, mixed tempura, beef fillet with wasabi or spicy lamb with lemongrass and grilled oyster mushrooms. Predictably, jade busts, gilded sculptures, ornate scrolls and traditional paintings provide a flamboyant backdrop to proceedings. Good Earth also has ‘express’ branches in other parts of town specialising in takeaways and local deliveries.
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