One of south London’s destination restaurants, The Glasshouse has impeccable family connections, being sister to Wandsworth’s Chez Bruce & Chiswick’s La Trompette. Square Meal readers love the
place for its ‘welcome’, its ‘lack of pretension’, its service & especially ‘the quality of its cooking’. Over the past year, new chef Daniel Mertl has brought his own style to the oft-changing
menu, while maintaining its essential character. Expect modern British & French combinations, using a palette of global flavours & serious classical technique. Beautifully presented ravioli
of skate & salmon is lifted by a lively sauce that sets vinegared capers against sweet golden raisins. Another winner is an intriguing miso-crusted duck with sesame & ginger, served with a
pastilla of duck leg. Praiseworthy classic desserts might follow, but it’s the magnificent cheeseboard that most impresses. Service is exemplary & the wine list, well-explained by the cheery
sommelier, will fascinate connoisseurs.
WINE LIST: A well thought-out pricing ladder makes this list very accessible. Although there is good regional variety from a host of countries, whites from Burgundy & the Loire are a
particular strength. If restraint is the order of the day, there is also an excellent selection of half bottles. BEST BUY WHITE 1998 Jacques Puffeney, Arbois Savagnin, Jura, France, £39.
BEST BUY RED 2004 Domaine du Trapadis, Les Adrés, Rasteau-Villages, Rhône Valley, France, £45.
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