From the same stable as Chiswick's La Trompette and Wandsworth's Chez Bruce – and arguably as good as both – The Glasshouse feels less showy and more dressed-down than its siblings. The design takes advantage of an asymmetric room with the tables spread in irregular fashion, while the menu appeals on many levels, presenting a clever blend of contemporary flavours and eclectic influences. A starter of delicate, beautifully presented scallop sashimi with ponzu dressing sets the tone, with a deep-fried prawn adding contrast to the texture and a touch of wasabi injecting some fire. To follow, pigeon breast with leg pastilla and quince jelly is an outright winner, its sweetness cut through with braised endive. The magnificent cheeseboard deserves proper attention, and so do the desserts – delicious white-chocolate crème brûlée with blueberry compote should tick most people's boxes. The carefully priced, accessible wine list also invites thorough scrutiny and the sommelier is sensitive to customers' budgets.
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