The darling of Kew, this sibling of Wandsworth’s Chez Bruce and Chiswick’s La Trompette also promotes itself as a neighbourhood eatery for the local bourgeoisie. The odd-shaped dining room is all beige tones and comfortably stuffed chairs, with intelligent, helpful service from a keen young team – a model of good taste that fits well with some big-flavoured Michelin-starred food. A starter of scallops with cauliflower purée delivers perfectly timed bivalves with generous white-truffle slivers, herb-crusted lamb rump comes with a Parmesan crisp and ratatouille for added punch, while the kitchen’s take on miso-marinated cod topped with a deep-fried oyster rivals the much-vaunted Nobu original. Magnificent cheeses steal the limelight from the list of desserts – although the Calvados and caramel doughnuts with green-apple purée shouldn’t be missed. The wine list offers a clever collection of affordable names interleaved with some serious trophy bottles.
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