Ginnan doesn’t bother with too much posturing or flamboyant oriental decoration, but customers ensconced in its restrained, dimly lit dining room can take their pick from an extensive menu that gives top billing to nigiri sushi, temaki rolls, sashimi and the like. If you prefer your food cooked, the kitchen can also deliver pretty plates of seaweed salad with miso dressing, gyoza dumplings, three kinds of noodles and a good spread of tempura, tonkatsu and teriyaki dishes – plus a few Korean interlopers such as beef bulgogi and vegetable bibimbap. There’s a bewildering array of express deals and set menus too (including a 90-minute sushi buffet, from £13.90 every night). Ginnan’s loyal Japanese expat fan-base is a good barometer for its authenticity, while service is efficient, gracious and helpful.
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