The Gay Hussar

This 50-year-old institution looks correspondingly grown up & serious with its dark-wood panelling, crisp napery, comfortable banquettes, shelves of first editions & framed political caricatures (though you’re just as likely to spot the odd Labour figure in the flesh). But it’s also quite cosy & jolly, especially in winter, which best suits the decor & the hearty Hungarian menu. Goulash (venison or veal) & crispy roast duck with red cabbage always warm the cockles, & there’s no better place in London to learn about Hungarian wines & liqueurs, though they do stock the odd bottle from elsewhere.