Even policy wonks & modern-day Machiavellis have to eat, & hungry lefties have a home-from-home in the Gay Hussar, whose long, narrow, panelled dining room is hung with the Martin Rowson caricatures to prove it. New Labour may be dead, but old Soho lives on here, in hefty portions of Hungarian dumplings, goulash & schnitzel. Chilled wild-cherry soup adds a touch of refinement to the ‘reassuringly expensive’ menu, with goose & pork pâté or smoked Hungarian sausage for stouter appetites. To follow, smoked goose breast with red cabbage & sólet (a variant of cassoulet) is good & straightforward, while stuffed cabbage or fish dumplings are doughty platefuls – & that’s before you’ve added sides or contemplated strudel or dobos torta. Hungarian wines, such as medium-dry Tokaji Muscat Blanc, are well worth trying. The restaurant is currently being sold, but it remains to be seen whether the new owners will change anything about this winning formula when they take over in early 2014. Watch this space.
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