
Once a revolutionary on the London dining scene, Le Gavroche is now so ancien régime it might appear on UNESCO’s world heritage list. Ava Gardner & Robert Redford may have attended its opening party back in the 60s, but this is the antithesis of see-&-be-seen dining: nowadays, any star spotting is confined to the Chagalls & Picassos on the walls. Not that there’s any pressure to modernise: ‘my first choice of venue’, admits one devotee; a ‘wonderful experience’, observes another. Indulgence (& extravagance) are the menu’s watchwords, although the opulence never gets out of control – witness a litany of evergreen standout dishes: the divinely rich soufflé suissesse; artichoke heart Lucullus; red mullet with beef marrow toast; roast veal sweetbread with apple & Calvados sauce; & passion fruit soufflé with white chocolate ice cream. Dissenters reckon that service has lapsed since the departure of charismatic Silvano Giraldin – although clued-up senior staff still ensure the customer really does come first.
Michel Roux Jnr first became a major player on the London scene in 1992 when he took over culinary institution Le Gavroche from his father. It is testament to the family's inherent talent & training that Michel Jnr has successfully maintained the standards & traditions of the venerable French restaurant. After serving his apprenticeship in Paris, Roux returned to London to work under Pierre Koffmann at La Tante Claire in Royal Hospital Road & at The Waterside Inn in Bray, Berkshire. With his daughter Emily currently working in the Mayfair restaurant kitchen, it looks as if Le Gavroche could stay in Roux hands for at least another generation. In 2008, Michel's profile sky-rocketed when he took on the role of co-hosting MasterChef Professional on BBC TV. Travel to Le Gavroche in style with London's leading minicab firm Addison Lee.
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