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‘We felt cherished… no pomposity, no arrogance, just divine', confessed one reader after experiencing Le Gavroche in all its ancien régime finery. Mind you, it sometimes takes age and worldly
experience to fully appreciate this grandee's attributes – the dark exclusivity of the cocooned dining room, the walls lined with 20th-century masters, the indulgent extravagance of the food. The
kitchen eschews the cult of the new, putting its faith in haute cuisine of the highest calibre: limpid duck consommé with turnip flan and smoked duck; roasted turbot on the bone with heritage
carrots and chive butter sauce; Cumbrian rose veal with creamed morels and pommes mousseline. Menus are framed by the iconic soufflé suissesse and the omelette Rothschild (an apricot soufflé laced
with Cointreau) – a tribute to the restaurant's respect for the old ways. Service is generally unimpeachable (despite the odd gripe about ‘stiff, moody staff'), and the fabled, all-inclusive lunch
menu is still ‘a must'. In short, Le Gavroche remains ‘the ultimate fine-dining dream'.
Le Gavroche is the opposite of contemporary in decor, but without being staid. You feel comfortable in your surroundings, as if you're sitting in a favourite wealthy uncle's library. There is no background music - Le Gavroche gets booked up months in advance and so can rely on there being a soundtrack of chatter and clinking to distract you from the sound of your companions eating... More from Gingle lists everything »
Michel Roux Jnr
Michel Roux Jnr first became a major player on the London scene in 1992 when he took over culinary institution Le Gavroche from his father. It is testament to the family's inherent talent & training that Michel Jnr has successfully maintained the standards & traditions of the venerable French restaurant. After serving his apprenticeship in Paris, Roux returned to London to work under Pierre Koffmann at La Tante Claire in Royal Hospital Road & at The Waterside Inn in Bray, Berkshire. With his daughter Emily currently working in the Mayfair restaurant kitchen, it looks as if Le Gavroche could stay in Roux hands for at least another generation. In 2008, Michel's profile sky-rocketed when he took on the role of co-hosting MasterChef Professional on BBC TV.