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There’s something "deeply soothing" and reassuringly familiar about Le Gavroche: diners come here to revel in fine food, luxurious comfort and perfectly choreographed service, without distraction
from designer uniforms or big look-at-me spaces – although a new six-table private room called the Chef’s Library is bound to be coveted by those who like dining amid shelves of cookery books. The
kitchen has recently been brought bang up to date, but top-end ingredients and unreformed haute cuisine are still the norm on the ever-evolving menu: mousseline of lobster with caviar and Champagne
butter sauce now sits alongside fragrant celeriac consommé with beautifully crafted spinach tortellini or a superb concoction of squab pigeon wrapped in a crispy pancake, sweetened with an
exemplary Madeira jus. Occasional misfires are not unknown, but they’re an exception to the rule. The cheeseboard and vast leather-bound wine list are both objects of desire, but beware: apart from
the excellent-value set lunch (£52.60 including water, wine and coffee), prices are "higher than a Baumgartner skydive" and the bill is best given to those with pacemakers already fitted.
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Michel Roux Jnr
Michel Roux Jnr first became a major player on the London scene in 1992 when he took over culinary institution Le Gavroche from his father. It is testament to the family's inherent talent & training that Michel Jnr has successfully maintained the standards & traditions of the venerable French restaurant. After serving his apprenticeship in Paris, Roux returned to London to work under Pierre Koffmann at La Tante Claire in Royal Hospital Road & at The Waterside Inn in Bray, Berkshire. With his daughter Emily currently working in the Mayfair restaurant kitchen, it looks as if Le Gavroche could stay in Roux hands for at least another generation. In 2008, Michel's profile sky-rocketed when he took on the role of co-hosting MasterChef Professional on BBC TV.