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This high-end chain expertly blurs the line between restaurant & bar with its moody lighting, mirrored walls, acres of cowhide & cool, thumping beats. There’s a whiff of testosterone in the air as herds of alpha males congregate to graze & guzzle, although ladies won’t be shunned. Gaucho is all about prime, pampas-reared Argentinian beef, with various cuts paraded round for inspection before you order: perfectly judged rib-eyes & juicy churrascos cut like butter & taste even better when bolstered by a side of sweet potato chips with chorizo. If you fancy a punchy starter, try char-grilled squid with aubergine caviar & black olives; if you can manage an indulgent finale, go for dulche-de-leche cheesecake. Food like this requires beefy, defiant red wine, & Gaucho touts a prodigious Argentinian selection arranged by grape variety.

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