Gatti's

The phrase ‘old-fashioned’ crops up regularly when readers are extolling Gatti’s charms, but it’s obviously meant in an affectionate way. Friendly staff & unpretentious decor add to the welcoming feel, while the food offers plenty of retro evergreens (Parma ham with melon, for instance). Kick off with a plate of forest mushrooms, garlic & parsley or try homemade ravioli emiliana stuffed with chicken & veal, before going for one of the no-nonsense, ever-so-traditional mains such as rib-eye with a balsamic reduction or calf’s liver with butter & sage. The Italian-focused wine list features some big names, including Antinori & Masi, although things don’t start to get interesting until you break the £30 mark. Be sure to save room for dessert: the sweet trolley is ‘to die for’, says one sweet-toothed aficionado.