Eric & Sarah Guignard have captured the market in special-occasion dining for miles around. Chef Eric uses high-end ingredients with a skill that might be envied in the West End, but a few diners complain that there are ‘too many flavours’ on one plate, as can be seen with the over-egging of an otherwise beautiful dish of Brixham monkfish wrapped in potato with salsify & Parma ham, crispy quails’ eggs & hollandaise; or the garlic crème brûlée tartelette accompanying a succulent herb-crusted rack of lamb with smoked shoulder, set off by Jerusalem artichokes. Still, there’s little gainsaying beautifully cooked hake with scallops in a lobster & vanilla sauce (vegetables coming by way of spinach & mascarpone cannelloni). Sarah leads the service team with charm & common sense. Booking is essential, especially at weekends when pressure on the close-set tables leads to ample earwigging possibilities.
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