‘A must’ for its down-home atmosphere & rustic Italian food, Frantoio has been ploughing its furrow in World’s End for years, although there are signs that its form is starting to dip, with gripes about ‘arrogant staff’ & ‘bland’ cooking surfacing among the regular plaudits. Even so, it regularly pulls in a motley crew of Chelsea senior citizens, footie fans & families, all drawn by its quaint, quirky charms, competitive prices & honest trattoria grub – from mussels cooked with tomato & basil to spaghetti alla vongole or calf’s liver with butter & sage. On a summer’s day, with the windows flung open, it can feel ‘like another country’. The wine list is packed with Chiantis & other treats from the homeland, while set menus (two courses for £15) are very popular.
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