Franco's

Dating back to 1946, Franco’s relaunched at the end of 2006 & while we had our doubts as to whether St James’s needed another upmarket Italian, readers have welcomed the new-look Franco’s like a long-lost friend, liking the warm, woody decor, polished service & a menu long on classy ingredients & high on cheffy creativity. A fresh crab salad with avocado, tomato & olive dressing demonstrates the kitchen’s light touch, sharpening the appetite for the likes of roast turbot with potato puree & wild mushroom sauce, a terrific combination of clean & earthy flavours. Diners hungry for three courses will be torn between a pasta or a pudding; if your tastes run to the savoury, try the ricotta & nettle tortelli with sage & parmesan, while sweet tooths might opt for a pineapple carpaccio with melon & mint frappé. Eighteen wines by the glass kick off an extensive & decently priced list that covers all of Italy’s major regions.