Franco's

Revisit Unrequited

It has been a while since I had last lunched here, but it was for a similar scenario and with another work counterpart, who was also taking advantage of the proximity of Franco's to their offices just off the Pall Mall.

On the surface much seemed the same and all was well certainly, starting from the reasonably cheerful welcome at the reception, to my arrival at the table where my host was already seated and waiting with his bloody mary. I promptly followed by ordering a virgin mary which came quickly as the service was cordial and efficient.

However when the food started to arrive it was then that I felt something must have been awry. The specials starter of artichoke and bottarga pasta was distinctly bland, so much so that I really had to try adding pepper, salt and olive oil, somehow anticipating that a sort of tipping point would suddenly come about, releasing flavours which were in some way hidden. But unfortunately I was not enlightened however much I tried.

And so to the main which was the fish and again this was just adequate really, rather than what should be an inspired sea bass fillet. There were some sides which were probably the best part of the meal that day, but part of me was wondering if the chef was perhaps on his annual ski break.

Franco's remains a pleasant and slick enough venue, and though I was not the host that day and thus not the paymaster, I recall that is is a suitably pricey place in keeping with its Mayfair surrounds.

And so I was disappointed overall, but given my previous visit had been much more impressive, I may yet still give it a chance (to redeem itself) or rather, not refuse the invite of another work counterpart, if Franco's is to be their choice of venue again.

Excellent service and a delicious meal. The veal was outstanding following by a traditional tiramisu equally as good. The prices are a little on the steep side , especially wine by the glass.

I really hope that Wills, who was dining here with his soon to be missus and the in-laws, had better service than we did. I don't know if the fact that He was there (together with a couple of very handy looking gentlemen with bulges under their left armpits) put the waiters off but, after my companion was anointed in extra virgin, the gentleman at the next door table took an espresso to the back. To make matters worse, whilst the maitre d' was charm personified, the actual waiters (and waitresses) were surly in the extreme; wanting to take our order the second we sat down, not bringing bread, forgetting the petit fours and taking an age to get the bill.

All this would have been fine had the food been excellent. It wasn't. It wasn't that it was bad (other than whatever was lurking under the, really quite lovely, buffalo mozzarella, which was oily and seriously off-putting), it just didn't coruscate at all. The lasagne was comforting as it should be but, whilst the linguine element of the lobster linguine was very nicely done, the main element was a bit of a let down. There was no bite in it or from the chilli.

We skipped the desert and went for the coffee, which was excellent. Not enough to make you want to rave about the place, but certainly enough to let you know that they really are Italian.

I am not sure why He and Her lot would want to come here mind: the place is full of a mixture of the suited hedgies and the ladies out a-lunching. There are so many better places that They could have chosen nearby.

Of course it isn’t all bad. As well as the aforementioned coffee, the main room upstairs (unlike the frozen tundra of the downstairs room) has a lovely buzz to it. The decor is plain, other than a rather racy picture hanging over the front desk: my companion tells me it was a “portrait” of the memsahib done a few years back. As the only thing that is covered, however, is her face, I am unable to confirm this tale.

We had to wait about 30 minutes for our table, during which time my ‘Campari with a splash of Soda’ was delivered filled to the brim. When at the table, we had to ask three times for a jug of tap water. The wine waiter topped up a pre-dinner glass of wine with a different red. When the food arrived, the wrong cutlery got whisked away and we then had to ask three times for the correct steak knife. Thing started to improve in that we only had to ask twice for the bill, but then upon trying to retrieve our coats, we were angrily informed that ‘yes we were given a tab’ for our coats (we hadn't been). The glowering look on the front of house woman was enough to convince us never to return. Appalling.

I've often walked by Franco's and noticed the bustling busy-ness of the restaurant in the morning and lunchtimes so decided to pop in for lunch. It seems to be quite often forgotten in favour of what is judged to be the more glamorous duo of Cecconi's and Cipriani among my friends and clients but from my experience yesterday it certainly holds its own. It comes across as more of a classic restaurant in style and perhaps also the dishes (although there seem to be some very creative daily specials!) I opted for a starter of Parma ham and melon – seemed the ideal dish to compliment the sunny weather and was very happy with it. It's a simple dish but have seen it done so wrong or badly on many occasions but here it hit the spot. For my main I went for the daily special of ostrich served with braised endive and cherries – The chef got the dish perfect – ostrich seems to be quite a hard meat to do well without it becoming tough and inedible but the dish was perfect – the cherries complimenting the soft pink meat perfectly. My unadventurous colleague went for the fillet steak which I had to try and was fantastic – I really should find out where they source their meat). Wines came by the glass as unfortunately I had to return to the office at some point so were left to the sommelier to suggest – both choices were excellent – a crisp white for starter and a deep fruity red for main and yet again I've completely forgotten what they were. Service was great – smart and friendly ensuring I will return soon – perhaps a breakfast will be the next stop at Franco's – especially at the value price of £14.