A ‘timeless’, elegant & welcoming restaurant that seems at odds with its soulless London Bridge surrounds, Magdalen generates all the conviviality of a particularly enjoyable dinner party. Driving the whole thing along is a kitchen brigade bristling with big-name credentials, & the result is a bold, deeply impressive menu full of rusticity & refinement. Provenance is British, but inspiration comes from France & beyond: a starter of snails & bone marrow is a lesson in texture as well as flavour, veal breast with asparagus, broad beans & radishes sings of springtime, while braised hare with white polenta & Parmesan is an autumnal hit. Finish with lemon & vodka ice cream or an intense chocolate terrine with Armagnac ice cream. Set lunches are terrific value, & Old World names dominate the wine list, with plenty by the glass or carafe.
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