With its bentwood chairs and walls of deepest claret, this terrific ‘local restaurant' has an unpretentious, homely vibe that's matched by an inviting menu of honest, seasonal dishes. British ingredients are deftly combined with classical French techniques in a terrine of Tamworth pork and parsley offset by creamy celeriac rémoulade or confit duck leg with roast fennel, carrots and mustard. Impeccable sourcing is the key to simpler ideas such as cured Hebridean salmon or grilled Longhorn onglet, while excellent game and offal see only minimal intervention. Desserts are ‘an absolute highlight', according to one fan, so be sure to save room for the ‘truly extraordinary' cinnamon doughnuts, quince crumble or velvety coffee ice cream. Good-value wines from south-west France are well represented on a thoughtfully compiled list, with friendly staff on hand to guide your selections.
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